The Pittsburgh Press (August 25, 1943)
Roving Reporter
By Ernie Pyle
Somewhere in Sicily, Italy – (by wireless)
At one time, in central Sicily, we correspondents were camped in a peach orchard behind the country home of an Italian baron. Apparently, the baron had skedaddled, as nobility is wont to do, before the fighting started. German and Italian troops had been occupying the place before we came.
The baron had built himself a big stone house that was pink and palatial, with a marvelous view over miles of rolling country. It had the usual royal peacocks strutting around but not a bath in the place. The dining room ceiling was hand-painted and the staircase gigantic, yet the royal family used porcelain washbowls and old-fashioned thundermugs. It was the perfect shabby rococo domicile of what H. R. Knickerbocker calls the “wretched aristocracy of Europe.”
While the baron lived in this comparative luxury, his employees lived in sheds and even caves in the big rocky hill just back of the house. They looked like gypsies.
Italians loot the house
When we arrived, the interior of the castle was a wreck. I’ve never seen such a complete shambles. Every room was knee-deep in debris. The enemy had thoroughly looted the place before fleeing. And servants gave us the shameful news that most of the looting and destruction was done by Italian soldiers rather than German.
They’d gone through the house shelf by shelf, drawer by drawer. Expensive dishes were thrown on the tile floor, antique vases shattered, women’s clothes dumped in jumbled heaps, pictures torn down, medicine cabinets dashed against walls, dressers broken up, wine bottles dropped on the floor, their contents turning the trash heap into a gooey mass as it dried.
It was truly the work of beasts. We tiptoed into the place gingerly, suspecting boobytraps, but finally decided it had not been fixed up. Then some of us rummaged around the debris seeing if anything left was worth taking as souvenirs. As far as I have seen, Americans have been good about not looting. Usually, they take only what is left from the Germans’ and Italians’ destruction or what the inhabitants voluntarily give them. All I could salvage were a few pieces of lace from the sewing-room floor.
Then we decided the dining room was the least messy place in the building, so we set to with grass brooms and shovels and water and cleaned it up. Thus, it became our press room. The Signal Corps ran wires from a portable generator to give us light so we could work by night.
One day, I was writing while all the other correspondents were away and a stray soldier peered in after having wandered in astonishment through the jumbled house.
He asked, “What is this place?”
I told him it was the former home of an Italian baron. His next question was so typically American you had to laugh despite a little shame at the average soldiers’ bad grammar and lack of learning.
A menagerie next door
He said:
What is these barons, anyway? Is they something like lords in England?
To avoid a technical discussion, I told him that for all practical purposes they were somewhat along the same line. He went away apparently satisfied.
Our orchard bivouac behind the castle was fine except for one thing. That was the barnyard collection that surrounded us. About an hour before dawn, we were always awakened by the most startling orchestra of weird and ghoulish noises ever put together.
Guinea hens would cackle, ducks would quack, calves bawl, babies cry, men shout, peacocks jabber and turkeys gobble. And to cap it all, a lone donkey at just the right dramatic moment in this hideous cacophony would let loose a long sardonic heehaw that turned your exasperation into outlandish laughter.
The baron’s servants were a poor-looking lot, yet they seemed very nice. Their kids hung around our camp all day, very quiet and meek. They looked at us so hungrily we couldn’t resist giving them cans of food. We tried to teach them to say grazia (thanks, in Italian) but with no success.
One day, some of us correspondents were doing our washing when one of the Sicilian women came up and took it away from us and washed it herself. When she finished, we asked her, “How much?”
They’re not lazy anyway
She said, “Nothing at all.” We said we’d give her some food. She said she didn’t expect any, that she was just doing it for us free, but we gave her some food anyway.
Stories like that are countless. The Army engineers tell me how the Sicilians would come up where they were working, grab shovels and start digging themselves and refuse to take anything for it. Whatever else you can say about them, the Sicilians don’t seem lazy.
One soldier summed it up when he said:
After living nine months with Arabs, the sight of somebody working voluntarily is almost too much for me.